Douglas DC-3

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Author: Kernle Frizzle

Last revision: 6 Feb, 2022 at 16:42 UTC

File size: 1.24 MB

On Steam Workshop

Description:

It’s a Douglas DC-3. You know the Douglas DC-3. I can’t be bothered to write out it’s history here so look up the wiki if you’re curious.

C-47 version (cargo configuration + paint job):
https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=2749177211


Startup:

Re-ordered slightly for the people having trouble

  1. Master Batt (overhead)
  2. Cockpit lights in case it’s dark (optional)
  3. Set mixture throttle to full (0.5)
  4. Flip on ignition (overhead)
  5. Flip on right fuel cutoff (near throttles)
  6. Flip on right magneto
  7. Flip on right fuel boost pump
  8. Hold the right starter button until Rpm reaches past ~216 and the engine starts
  9. Turn off boost pump once rpm stabilizes
  10. Flip on left fuel cutoff (near throttles)
  11. Flip on left magneto
  12. Flip on left fuel boost pump
  13. Hold the left starter button until Rpm reaches ~216 and the engine starts
  14. Turn off boost pump once rpm stabilizes
  15. Set Rpm to 800-1000 for taxi (~15%)

Flight Procedures:

Taxi – 800-1000 rpm (~15%), up/down or 1/2 for throttle up/down, you’ll want to look high above the dash if you want to see forewards in 1st person

Takeoff – 2750 rpm (100%), full throttle, use what flap setting you thing is appropriate for your load (0, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full) 3 for gear.

Climb – 2350 rpm (?%), 90% throttle works, maybe try not to go vertical at this stage

Cruise – 2050 rpm (~70%), mess with the throttle for fuel consumption

Navigation/Autopilot – Navigator’s seat, to the left behind the pilot has a waypoint heading calculator. Input the coords of your waypoint, and the big dial will tell you the heading to input into the Autopilot. Just turning on the Autopilot switch will make the plane follow the current heading at the point you flipped the switch, and stabilize its altitude. Flipping the ‘Switch to Input’ switch switches the input to the keypad to the right. If you need to use radios, the operator’s seat is behind the copilot’s. Don’t forget to activate the equipment power before trying to transmit.

! Caution ! – In Arctic weather, below 0degC, the Pitot-static tubes will get clogged with ice and malfunction. Make sure you have the Pitot heaters on.

Descent – 2050 rpm (~70%), maintain speed above 120, ideal descent rate of 500 fpm

Approach – 2050 rpm (~70%), 1/4 flaps 105 kn in downwind, lower gear with 3, set to 3/4 flaps before base, turn base at full flaps, speed 90 kn, ~60% throttle works

Landing – 2050 rpm (~70%), right before touchdown flare a tiny bit (don’t overdo it), drop the throttle to 0, 4 for wheel brakes, 4+2 toggles the parking brake if you’re doing a risky one. Reduce the rpm back to 800-1000 rpm (~15%) for taxi once more.

Use external lights when you see fit


Additional Info:

Each dial in the cockpit is labeled, so have a look around and remember where everything is. If you have an engine failure, you can hit the prop feather button for the failed engine, just for realism.. I doubt it actually does anything.

The livery doesn’t have any meaning, just looked cool imo

StormLink Compatible…?

(I hope), seats 18, C-47 version seats 24 in benches lining the cabin

Rear baggage compartment can fit 3 crates and 4-5 small closed boxes from my testing.

I haven’t tested it with the lower physics settings but I’d recommend using full physics

That’s just about all you need to know, so if you’re brave enough to take this rust bucket flyin, good luck, solder.

Perfect for flyin round volcanoes tho 😉


One thing I need you guys’ help on; The wings are on pivots, and every once in a while the game decides they should flop around for no good reason. It’s not an issue of stiffness, the lower stiffness actually makes it easier to control when it does happen. I made a version with electrical and magnetic connectors, and it still happens. If you have any idea why it does, please say in the comments. Thanks!

  • Btw thanks Thales, in the future I’ll avoid pivoted wings in general, imo tho changing them on the DC3 wouldn’t really keep the ‘asthetic’

    Btw do any of you know where the beacon light should be on this? Can’t find an exact answer


btw don’t forget to read everything carefully, it won’t work if some steps aren’t done, realism and all